You were in Chelas? My God, I have lived in Lisbon for eight years and I have never risked going there – says Melinda, a 23-year old student who moved to Portugal with her family from Cape Verde. Melinda isn’t the only one in the Portuguese capital that knows the bad reputation of this district. But why are people afraid of Chelas, which is situated almost in the heart of this modern European city? And do the lives of people in this district differ from what we have seen in other parts of Lisbon? Finally – do the youth of Chelas fit the general mould of “generation Europe”? There was only one way to answer these questions – go to Chelas.First impression after leaving metro at Chelas station? Ordinary part of the city. Normal streets, standard Portuguese buildings, smiling people and the usual car congestion. So is there something to be afraid of? The easiest way to find out was to ask a police officer. – It is not safe down here, especially after 7 o’clock, so better not to search for troubles cause you can find them – Jorge Barbosa, an officer from police station situated not far from the metro entrance, warned. – And you can lose your camera easily, so better keep it hidden – he added. – Don’t go there! – shouted officer Barbosa as we headed south.
Another voice of warning in this seemingly friendly neighbourhood was that of our bus driver
when asked where Africans are living. – It is not a good place to hang around – he said while opening the door on next bus stop. – But if you really wanna go there…- he added indicating “interesting” direction. Then he disappeared with lots of noise and the smell of exhaust fumes, leaving us in the very heart of African part of this city. Buildings were a bit different. Grey, overwhelming, neglected. Inhabitants of this district walking through the streets and pavements gave the impression that they weren’t going anywhere in particular but just loitering to kill time. Even when we found those who spoke French or English, they were not interested in being interviewed. Eventually an old man speaking French was willing to talk. – I moved here with my family from Guinea twenty years ago – said Nelson, 64-year old man standing in front of local food shop. – I never think how our life here looks like. We simply live from day to another, trying to avoid problems and bring up our grandchildren as good people – he added calmly.

In this sleepy and almost dull neighborhood there was only one eye-catching building – the purple, yellow, pink, green and blue-colored walls were so shockingly different from the surroundings, that we were drawn to it, like a fly coming to a bulb in the night. A narrow corridor leading to the inside was inviting us to take a peek. The calm atmosphere of this district muffled our instinct of danger, so we left the street to see what was behind the wall. Without knowing that this corridor will lead us directly to a nightmare.
“At least we are safe”There is no doubt we were strangers in this neighborhood - like tourists trying to spy upon this community, steal their intimate way of life. Looking to find out about the life of African immigrants who moved to country of their former colonizer in search for better conditions. Cape Verde, Guinea, Sao Tome, Zanzibar, Angola, Mozambique… Portugal made a lot of mistakes in the past, ravaging the resources of some African nations, and now has a moral debt to pay. Because they usually speak Portuguese and national immigration policy is friendly for them, lots of Africans move to Portugal wishing to find a better life.
After meeting few talkative Africans, we discovered that in general Portuguese society is friendly to them and doesn’t show any strong racist behaviour. – There is no racism here, especially amongst young children – says Mais, a 40-year old women carrying her small daughter Camille and sitting opposite to her old mother Adelaide. We found those three women sitting in a tiny kiosk where Madame Adelaide was selling vegetables and fruit on the street. 30-years ago this African family moved to Portugal from Cape Verde. Now they live on the edge of poverty, earning what little money they can from selling goods to other Chelas inhabitants. But they do not complain about their life here. – At least Camille can study in school with other children and we feel safe here – says Mais in French.
In the nest of African angerBut the rainbow-like building wasn’t safe at all. As we passed through the corridor into a courtyard between pink and green walls, we felt we had entered a different dimension. Although the courtyard was empty it was oppressively stuffy, a muffled hip-hop beat from some open window piercing the silence. Click! We took one picture and chaos descended. Immediately, from different sides of the courtyard more than a dozen young black people appeared, hiding their faces in t-shirts, running towards us and yelling in Portuguese. This time we didn’t need a translation – we were in a serious trouble.
Knowing that if we ran away, it would be over, we faced the situation head-on. The group encircled us and started pushing, trying to take our cameras, screaming that we are undercover police. We saw wild anger in their bloodshot eyes and when they realised that we’re foreigners, some of them started yelling in English. Fighting to keep camera in our hands, we tried to persuade them that we were just lost in their neighborhood while visiting Chelas to see how people are living here. Finally, they were convinced, as they stood and watched as all the pictures were deleted from the memory card.
- What the f… are you doing here? Get away now! – someone shouted. So we headed back to the street, still encircled by the group pushing us aggressively. But as we left the building, their curiosity gave us the initiative. Shaking their hands as with friends and introducing ourselves, we gained a bit of trust and started asking about their life, roots and problems. Showing respect to them, we somehow managed to start a discussion. The most talkative guy was Dave, a young Briton who came to visit his family living in Chelas. When most of his friends went back to the building, he explained why we were so lucky to get out from there without being harmed. – You made a picture of two guys making a deal with drugs, this is a site where they sell this stuff for whole district – he said.
Asked about the police station that was directly opposite the building, Dave answered: - And what then? You will never see a policeman here. They don’t come inside, they are too afraid of us.
During the riot, we saw a few young white Portuguese boys among the mainly black group. – So you don’t live separately here? – we asked. – No, man! We’re brothers and sisters, skin color doesn’t matter. They live on the same street, go to the same schools and deal with the same problems, so why should we hate each other? – Dave answered.
Micro-worldJust opposite the drug dealers nest, there was a school and kindergarten. All over the place, children were just having fun, talking, playing without any fear. They were very friendly and those who were older even wanted to speak. 14-year old Melissa, and Neuza and Ugu who were two years younger confirmed everything that Dave told us. For them, Chelas was their home, a safe district where they were growing up, playing and laughing. They didn’t care about the origins of their parents or skin color. – If you are from here, you don’t have to be afraid of anything – said Melissa. – Just you need to accept and respect others – she added.
And do you want to know, where all this happens? Shop, school, kinder garden, police station, dealers nest and vegetable kiosk were on both sides of… Avenida Joao Paulo II.
Text: Filip JurzykPhoto: An-Sofie Kesteleyn